Who's behind the stove?

Today in the New York Times, Who Really Cooks Your Food?, an examination of the chefs behind the famous chefs at renowned high-end restaurants.

Alert restaurant customers already know that when a second in command is announced on a restaurant menu under the title of chef de cuisine or executive sous-chef, it signifies that the chef whose name is on the marquee might be a few blocks, or a few time zones, away.

Of course this isn't a surprise, though what was a surprise to me was the news that Eric Ziebold, Thomas Keller's chef de cuisine at the French Laundry, has resigned. According to this article, Keller is now back in California managing the relaunch of the French Laundry, which closed for renovations while his New York restaurant, Per Se, opened. Though Thomas Keller is my favorite chef, I haven't had much interest in eating at Per Se, simply because nothing could top my night at the French Laundry. And now that he's not even in the kitchen, I'm less inclined than ever.

Posted on May 12, 2004

what is megnut?

Megnut is a site about food written by Meg Hourihan. She lives in NYC. More...

recent features

The sweet (and bittersweet) taste of summer

Summer drinks should be like summer evenings: long, light and cool. Guest writer A.D. introduces some less common ones to enliven our senses during these wonderful long hot days.

Strawberry Fields Forever

Food traditions bind my family; I'm reminded of that every year when I drive to north-central Massachusetts to pick strawberries with my grandparents.

Comparing Frozen Fish to Fresh

My mother swears by frozen fish. I was unconvinced, and decided to put her statements to the test: could flash-frozen fish taste as good as fresh local fish from the Greenmarket or even fresh fish from a local supermarket?

around May 12, 2004...

I was also writing about:
I scream for poutine
More of a good Blue Hill thing
It's not Provencal, it's fauxvencal
Amazing dining at Eleven Madison Park
Thomas Keller and Per Se
Slate on variety meats
The Times on frozen sushi
Tomato up?
Five restaurants in Paris
Found France