Casual high end fare in Paris

Oh yummy Paris and your yummy restaurants. Mark Bittman takes a look at France's famous three-star chefs going bistro for the New York Times in Restaurants of the Year: In Paris, Star Chefs Take a Casual Turn. Alain Ducasse has two Paris bistros now, and Pierre Gagnaire is now running an old fish bistro called Gaya where it sounds like he's up to his usual crazy tricks (fish and chips without any chips, reports Bittman). Makes me long for a return to Paris!